She got out of bed, her caramel skin glistening and her long, black hair still tied in a perfect ponytail. Without saying a word, I watched her naked body walk over to her suitcase, pick out some clothes, then head to the bathroom to take a shower - the second one she'd taken in as many hours.
She looked like Pocahontas oughta look like. Not the real Pocahontas, but Disney's Pocahontas. In my mind's eye, Disney's is more real anyway.
I stayed in bed and picked up the TV remote control, something that's very counterintuitive for me since I don't have a TV at home. But here, in this artificial mega-hotel built for pasty white gringos and their bank-teller wives and their three obese, lobsteresque children, I now had nothing else to do but lay in bed and watch mexican soap operas with english subtitles. In an ugly room of an ugly hotel in an ugly city, a stunning apparition of a woman is getting dressed to hit the local club scene with some girls she'd met here the night before - and without the man she just crawled out of bed from.
Her knees still wobbly, she quietly grabbed one of the two hotel keycards off the nightstand and walked out the door, never picking her eyes up off the floor. I had no desire or intention of going after her, arguing, or even so much as getting out of bed.
Twenty minutes later, I was sitting at a beachside bar along the strip, staring at something I loathe: the bottom of an empty glass. I was waiting on a 3rd round of 80-pesos-a-glass Jack Daniel's on the rocks. In the defense of "The Pirate's Loot Bar and Grill", the glasses were more akin to beer mugs and nearly filled to the rim. I wasn't sad or depressed, but I did know that I wanted to leave this place. Acapulco, like every other artificial cocoon built to attract tourist dollars, is sterile and hollow. And not "clean" sterile either, but the kind of sterile you can smell in the air of a mortician's office. Or a taxidermist's. Or a mortician-slash-taxidermist's.
Despite these hiccups, coming to Mexico definitely wasn't a mistake. I've had some of the best food I've ever tasted in my life here, in the little stands and markets that dot the otherwise uninviting cityscapes of Mexico City and Queretaro. And minus the crowds, buildings, cars, highways, pollution and garbage, it's definitely a beautiful place to explore. Mmmm... the food.
My mouth started to feel like I imagine the inside of a working microwave feels like as I started devouring my third taco. I must've been quite a sight to behold with little beads of sweat running down my forehead, my eyes sinking deep into their sockets, my hands trembling, and my normally inaudible breathing sounding closer to a fat Texan halfway through an all-you-can buffet. It was such delicious torture. There were maybe 8 or 9 clay pots sitting on the counter, each one filled with different erotic exotic meats, vegetables and combinations - each tastier (and spicier) than the last. I didn't even bother to check the price list as we sat down to eat. By the time we'd both had our of several helpings of soft tacos, quesadillas and sopes, and God knows how many refrescos to wash it all down, I paid the delightful, cheerful lady at the counter. I owed her 55 pesos, or about $5. For both of us. I've paid 20 times that in Paris for foie gras that didn't come close to being as satisfying as these little pieces of soft bread filled with love.
I can't say I've had any bad food here. Nearly every meal left me incredulous. But one night, late, we were both rather hungry and so she suggested that we go to the nearest family restaurant, one of these generic restaurant chains like "Scores" or "St-Hubert" in Canada, or, umm... well whatever you Americans pass off as a restaurant chain.
The food was alright - nothing like the authentic home-made mexican food I'd been enjoying the the courtyards, plazas and markets since I'd gotten here, but it was serviceable and I couldn't complain. As I walked out, I began noticing something underneath all of the restaurants signs, advertisements and promotional material; a little white star with some writing underneath. A Wal-Mart logo.
As the days went on, I started seeing this logo more and more often. On other restaurants. Tourist shops. Convenience stores. Even seemingly innocuous cafes and ice cream shops.
“What Wal-Mart did in Mexico was very instructive. Mexico was a testing ground for the method of operation. They basically acquired existing stores. They moved into Mexico and that became the theme in other countries like the UK, Germany, and Japan. They would buy into an existing operation, rather then start from scratch.”
Wal-Mart, it turned out, owns a largish chunk of anything worth owning in Mexico. There are nearly 900 Wal-Mart units in Mexico, including 113 supercenters, throughout 130 cities. Wal-Mart de Mexico operates over 280 restaurants including VIPS (international cuisine), El Portón (Mexican), Ragazzi (Italian-style) and other specialized restaurants. In 2004, Wal-Mart de Mexico reported sales of $139.8 billion pesos (US $12.5 billion), a 15.8% increase over the previous year. Wal-Mart employs over 130,000 Mexicans as dronemonkeys "associates", making it Mexico's #1 employer. As in the U.S., the bottom line is king in Wal-Mart Mexico - that means no unions or other troublemakers are tolerated. These non-union Mexican Wal-Mart "associates" earn about 13 pesos an hour (about $1.20 USD) as compared to their non-union U.S. counterparts' $9.50.
"I really don't see what is to prevent us from owning all of Mexico and running it to suit ourselves."
- William Randolph Hearst
Despite the jobs created, Mexico is a country with a severe poverty problem. Social mobility is at an all-time low, while homelessness is skyrocketing. All the while, Mexicans are losing Mexico. Instead of being the owners of their own country and land, the economic fate of their country is decided in backroom deals across the border. Through trade annexation agreements such as NAFTA, outsourcing and consolidations, the powers-that-were slowly sold out their nation to the highest bidder.
And the highest bidder is always the United States.
Added to the penetration of Wal-Mart in Mexican life is the new Wal-Mart store that will appear less than one mile from the ancient pyramids of Teotihuacan. "What might this mean? Perhaps they can build a strip club at the Holy Sepulcher, a McDonald's at the ruins of Montealban, or a Hard Rock Cafe next to the Pyramids of Egypt," wrote columnist Javier Aranda, referring, respectively, to the site where Jesus was buried, another famous Mexican ruin and a man-made wonder of the world.
There is nothing "free" about free markets when they are connected via puppet strings to a stick in another country. And things aren't about to change. This year, Wal Mart will invest $750 million, more than all its competitors combined, opening 70 new stores, according to Walmex spokesman Raul Arguelles. "Expect many, many more square meters of Wal-Mart sales floor in Mexico in the future," he says.
Sincreticism unlocks the door to much of the Mexican mystery. When the Europeans came, they pulled down the Aztec temples--Teotihuacan is a fortuitous exception--and built their cathedrals from the rubble. The Teotihuacan Wal-Mart, albeit transiently imposed, sits atop land once occupied by an Aztec "tianguis" or bazaar. In Mexico, you always need to look underneath.
Mexico is a four millennium-old civilization with a culture as obdurate as granite and obsidian. In contrast, the United States is a make-believe country with a bubble-wrapped culture and a minimal national history. The smart money says that when all the Wal-Marts crumble into dust, the majestic Pyramids of Teotihuacan will still be standing.